The Ligurian Coast

When visiting obscure places of hidden beauty one can form their own opinions and draw conclusions without fear of being contradicted.  The Ligurian coast is one of them.

Remote.  Despite geographic proximity to France and the big cities of NW Italy, this is one of the most remote regions in a country that is basically an overstretched chain of remote regions.  It is turned towards the sea and away from the rest of Europe, separated by the Appenine mountain chain – so once you are in that stretch of the coastline, make the most of it.  Roughly split in half by Genoa into the France bound Riviera di Ponente where the Sun sets and Tuscany bound Riviera di Levante where the Sun rises, the former in turn breaks down into Riviera delle Palme centered on Savona just W of Genoa and Riviera dei Fiori closest to the French border – each with their own landscape and character.

Pleasant.  This is not St Tropez – bridges, tunnels, and roads all in excellent condition and not congested (Genoa bridge collapse related to an original design flaw notwithstanding), and I can attest to that as a former civil / structural engineer.  But the region’s topology is not very forgiving – one single, continuous arc, everything either reached sequentially, or not at all – and seriously limits your degrees of freedom.  Driving, occasionally stopping for a drink or a night, is the only way to experience the entire coast but – lack of redundant pathways through the seaside villages makes any sort of omnidirectional movement or exploration in parallel impossible – everything here is connected in series, one town, one beach, one espresso shot at a time, making this experience mostly unidirectional.  A degree of freedom fully within your control is the flexibility to swap the slow, scenic road that goes through the coastal towns along the Mediterranean for a succession of admirably built bridge/tunnel/bridge links that cut through the mountains at high speed, they form a parallel arc just a few hundred meters inland. This may allow you to skip a village or two.

Simple.   With light and very simple local food (fresh fish caught the same day, seafood, pesto) and even simpler wines (generic whites, roses and Rossese people drink here for a light red), the Ligurian Coast will be a nice break from the exquisite sophistication of Turin and Piemontese cooking and its many excellent but overbearing wines.  Still, the cooking here is simple but not too simple and not easy to make.  I don’t recall being disappointed by the food and advise you to save your calorie and wine budget for Piemonte.

Economy class.  Overview of key coastal towns follows, many as small as 1,000 inhabitants, some as large as 60,000, and most well under 10,000 people.  All of them – with the possible exception of Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino – are much more democratic and family oriented, less upscale and pretentious than their better known counterparts on the French Riviera.  If you are looking for opulence and a pinkies up experience instead of authenticity and local scenery, skip ahead to part 3. below.

1. East of Genova – Riviera di Levante.
   • Spezia province. Almost too far East and too close to Tuscany to make sense as part of a tour of NW Italy and ruined by excessive tourism.  Better places closer to Milan-Turin-Genoa triangle

• Cinqueterre (+/-) my out of consensus recommendation, skip. Or go way out of season and during off peak hours of the day. This is a fine collection of five picturesque cliff side villages facing the Mediterranean in the middle of a national park – Monterosso (largest), Vernazza (most favored), Corniglia (least crowded), Manarola, and Riomaggiore (most authentic) – each of them formed by steep terraces sitting on top of its own peninsula, each with a colorful skyline of quaint multistory facades.  Almost too popular to bother visiting despite its scenic value, picture perfect imagery and a unique setting even for this exceedingly beautiful part of the world.
  • Overrated as a day trip destination, the way to do it is to come by boat, off season, stay a night, and hike earlier in the morning past vineyards and orchards on otherwise relatively uninspiring narrow footpaths connecting the villages – rooftop views back lit by the Mediterranean – especially in low light of early morning – are a nice reward at the end of each leg of the trail.   A 3hr boat ride from Genoa along the shore past Punta Baffe rocks opens up better views of the water, yachts, and high end recreation than a claustrophobic drive or the train alternative.
  • Despite relative isolation from other interesting points along the Ligurian coast and thanks to its UNESCO World Heritage Site status, Cinqueterre are excessively touristy, attacked and nearly ruined by crowds descending from trains and cruise ships – as many as 2.5MM a year, an unsustainable number given highly seasonal concentration and tiny footprint of the towns. In high season, every place is packed and overpriced, and there is no escape from crowds even on the hiking trails above.
  • Overall, worth it only if you are looking to add a notch in your belt or want be able to chime with your firsthand view at a cocktail party. Otherwise, buy a postcard of the village skyline, leave the tourist crowds for Lake Como, and the hiking for Sudtirol or Portofino Mountain instead – and read on to prioritize accordingly.
• Portevenere (=/-) East of the villages and closing out the peninsula is protected by its lack of rail access. Behind it further SE on the inland side of the gulf is La Spezia, Liguria’s easternmost town on the border with Tuscany – its waterfront landscaping every bit as impressive as lakeside promenades in Lugano or high end hotel gardens in Stresa on Lake Maggiore
  • Genoa province. Even not counting the city itself and staying with the beach towns and seaside communities, this is the most interesting and sophisticated part of the Ligurian coast.  Some of my all-time favorites – Camogli, Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure, San Fruttuoso and the Portofino Mountain in between, as well as the consensus favorite, Sestri Levante, are all here.
• Sestri Levante (++) West of the villages and on the way to Rapallo, this place has a decidedly Croatian feel.
  • Its peninsula b/t the Bay of Silence and the Bay of Fables is actually an island now connected to mainland, this three-block wide town is historic and has romantic and lively atmosphere, with two nice sandy beaches on either side of the built up part of town, and a park at its far tip.
  • Is known for better than average restaurants but a nice stop even if not hungry – for an espresso, a glass, and a stroll. I am skipping wide, civilized and well equipped beaches of Chiavari, Lavagna also on Golfo Tigullio to get straight to my favorites.
• Rapallo / Santa Margherita Ligure (+++), two of the most panoramic towns in Liguria on Gulfo Tigullio, a bit larger in size but local, quaint and relaxed, tough to pick the winner between them – Rapallo is livelier and more eccentric and offers sweeping views of Santa Margherita, which is a bit more posh and exclusive with nice hotels and shopping.
  • Both have beautiful waterfront promenades, great villas, attractive hotels, some of the best landscaping and street furniture, and iconic views, especially in early morning; look for a stacked view of both towns with their marinas from N to S, towards Paraggi and Portofino.
  • The drive from Rapallo past Santa Margherita and down to the tip of the Portofino peninsula is recommended. Don’t forget picturesque Camogli and its surroundings, including San Fruttuoso, are just on the other side of the Portofino Mountain facing Genoa, straight across from Rapallo / Santa Margherita Ligure.
• Camogli (+++) sitting only 10 min East of Genoa on the Golfo Paradiso, past colorful Nervi with its beautiful 2km long coastal promenade, past 1,000 yr old Bogliasco and just outside Recco, Camogli is a former fisherman’s village – and even earlier, in Medieval times, a decent size port – turned into a classy resort. Rocky and pebble beachfront, tiers of seven and eight story old apartment building facades as colorful as in most Mediterranean and Alpine communities, it feels more romantic and exquisite than most, and easily the most picture perfect spot on the Italian Riviera.
  • Camogli provides some of the flavor and most of the scenery of Cinqueterre – albeit a bit more urbanized so not a perfect substitute – but not nearly as ruined by tourists. Despite its manmade and natural beauty, Camogli is not undiscovered but relatively off the beaten path and in a drive past zone.  Even better.
  • A quick piece of advice if you indulge me, even if you decide to pluck Genoa out of your itinerary, do not skip Camogli.
  • Whatever you do, sunset views over Golfo Paradiso from a local wine bar in San Rocco up on the W slope of the Portofino Mountain above the beach are not to be missed: the West facing view selectively shows only the pretty and quite nuanced landscape of mountain ranges and hides everything else, showing no grittiness whatsoever, geography has a great job filtering all of Genoa and its port.
  • Nearby villages of Recco, Sori, Bogliasco are perfectly fine – quiet, equally neglected beaches and rocky cliffs, some more idyllic than others – but none measure up to Camogli in my opinion, and you have to draw a line somewhere.
  • On the waterfront, try a meal or a glass at hotel Cenobio dei Dogi’s scenic Il Doge or La Playa restaurants. Ostaia da o Sigu and La Piazzetta are recommended.  La Camogliese with its scenic terrace overhanging the beach and its outside area along the promenade overlooking the sea is a must.  La Rotonda is a great panoramic spot but not sure about the food quality. Up the hill, try La Cucina di Nonna Nina for an authentic local place with a tiny menu and great veranda views.
• San Fruttuoso and Portofino Mountain hiking (++) not to be confused with the town of Portofino (not recommended), this leafy mountain occupies a peninsula that joins Golfo di Paradiso on the W and Golfo Tigullio on the E with the scenic towns of Rapallo and Santa Margherita Ligure. Beats the obligatory, touristy, and more overhyped Cinqueterre hiking trail. Portofino Mountain is right there, more easily accessible, greener, and less crowded.  Recommended hikes:
  • Along the outer face of the Portofino Mountain from Camogli past Punta Chiappa and the beautiful San Fruttuoso Abbey to Portofino/Paraggi or
  • Over the mountain across a shorter path from Camogli to Rapallo or Santa Margheria. Do not go to Portofino itself, al old man’s playground and somewhat constipated.
• Boccadasse (+) an old sailors’ neighborhood 5 min east of the city and sometimes called Genoa’s own little Cinqueterre and a popular Sat dinner spot for locals.  A couple of nice restaurants by the water – Vittorio al Mare, Osteria Gigino – simple Ligurian cooking, fish
• Genova itself (+++), more detail in Exhibit A. Definitely off the tourist path and underappreciated, but in my opinion a beautiful vertical city of high density that offers striking panoramic views, hosts some of the most original palatial detail in Centro Storico.  The city offers some of the best late 19th / early 20th century big city architecture of any city in Italy – along several long blocks along via XX Settembre east of piazza Garibaldi just outside the old town, you have to be in Vienna or Buenos Aires to see residential blocks on a similar scale.
  • It also has very interesting structures from medieval, gothic and renaissance periods – if you have time.  The setting is dramatic, the city is a long narrow stretch along the cost and rises steeply up the mountains, worth a detour by car – every turn along the winding streets puts you above the roof level of the historic buildings below and opens up a different angle over the Mediterranean.
  • The city used to rule the sea before Venice took over, and instead of a single ruler was run by an oligarchy of patrician families whose palatial villas are scattered throughout town and along via Balbi, I would recommend at least Palazzo Reale.
  • It is a city of contrasts, has the largest and densest medieval old city core in Europe next to Venice. One exception to the maze of ethnically diverse and not very glamorous medieval lanes is the pedestrian via Garibaldi, one of Europe’s most noble and progressive streets of the 16th c, lined with palatial mansions.  The city is not for everyone but I am a big fan, the combination of deep detail and intense sunlight enhance the burial effect but a word of caution – you have to be a student of architecture or history to appreciate.

2. West of Genova – Riviera di Ponente.
   • Savona province or roughly Riviera delle Palmi. Here it is even more important to take the local seaside via Aurelia road, you will pass by every town, every parasol covered beach, every bay right along waterfront, options to stop and stretch your legs – or any other parts – at every turn.  This is a scenic and democratic coastline, local kids and families visible among obvious visitors from other parts of Italy.  Scenic intensity indicator rises as you get closer to the Westernmost edge of this stretch where it meets Imperia – Albenga, Alassio – the former is simply the most memorable historic town on the coast, the latter boasts the longest sandy beach on the Riviera.

• Savona, Arenzano, Varazze (=/+) Savona tries to be a Genoa mini me, beautiful buildings with nice cafes but busy, with population of 60k, 2^nd largest city in Liguria, imposing for its size, and worth a stop for lunch or at the very least, gelato. Just don’t linger, much more to see. On the way to some of the most acknowledged beach and marina communities further West, Arenzano, Varazze busy coastal towns popular local with locals, nice promenade, decent views over the rooftops and the sea from the back roads up the hill.
• Spotorno, Noli, Varigotti (+++) W of Savona and past less interesting Celle Ligure, this is a more rustic/less industrial stretch of the coastline – the three most famous seaside communities are 5km or so apart. Spotorno is a sandy and child-friendly beach, popular among locals, with attractive hotels palm trees, Varigotti – a fishing village famous for its rocky coastline and colorful facades.
  • Noli (+++) a beautiful old town dominated by a few medieval brick towers, among them impressive Torre Comunale on piazza of the Palazzo della Republica, narrow streets, a few palazzi, old harbor, plus sandy and gravel beaches with bars and playgrounds. This town was an independent maritime republic from 12th century until it lost its sovereignty during Napoleonic wars 6 centuries later.  The view over red tile roofs in front of the bright blue of the Mediterranean is worth a short drive up the hill.  Capo Noli, the tip of a peninsula at the end of the bay and visible from the town of Noli is a post card image of the Riviera delle Palmi and the entire Riviera di Ponente, a popular spot for rock climbing and hiking right above the Mediterranean with two dozen routes.
• Finale Ligure, Finalborgo, Pietra Ligure (++), a popular stretch of sandy and gravel beaches and a lively historic town with a pretty historic center, plenty of character, a baroque church, even its own triumphal arch, all under 4,500ft tall foothills, world famous among mountain bikers. Finalborgo just a couple of km inland up the river is an interesting medieval town, full of interesting facades, arches, convents.  Pietra Ligure is a stretch of nice beaches occupied by big city dwellers of this part of Italy
• Albenga (+++), a prominent and very interesting old town that dates back 2,000 years, with pedestrian historic center that exhibits narrow alleys, 14^th century palazzi, a Romanesque cathedral from the 12^th century, and other ingredients of urban civilization.
  • Albenga belonged to Genoa from 13^th century then Savoy since the 17^th century, but had already been well developed in pre-Renaissance times before foreign conquests.
  • Like Asti in Piemonte, known as a city of 100 towers. Its well-integrated medieval towers are similar to those in the historic cities of Emilia Romagna or Tuscany – reminiscent of Bologna or San Giminiano in particular – but more unique for Liguria.
  • Close to waterfront, with stone, sand and pebble beaches and rocky stretches of the coast used by locals for fishing
• Alassio (+++), at 4km, one of the longest stretches of nice sandy beaches in Liguria resorts stitched together, plenty of outdoor restaurant terraces to relax in, good basic food typical of the Italian Riviera
  • Imperia province or Riviera dei Fiori. More marinas and beaches here but in a way, the most relaxed part, scenic enough with exotic flora, beautiful landscapes and distinctive character and, most importantly, closest to the French border.
• Cervo (++), a picture perfect 2,000 yr old hillside village, not unlike Dolceacqua (see below) but on the Mediterranean coast – skip only if in a hurry but not without acknowledging the setting, otherwise the steep lanes and a beautiful baroque church at the top justify a quick detour and a brief stop.
• San Remo, Imperia (=), famous for the festival, casino and popularity with Russian aristocracy, but these days faded and a shadow of its glory – it may be Riviera’s least interesting place, too many more interesting towns and more inspiring stretches of coast to get stuck here – you realize this fully after crossing the border into Menton, even if that is as far as you get on the French side.    I prefer the vitality of nearby Imperia and its Porto Maurizio and Oneglia to San Remo, maybe its lack of expectations.
  • The Royal San Remo hotel is among the most comfortable ones along the coast, and breakfast/coffee in the exotic garden overlooking the sea is hard to beat. Just don’t make a destination out of it and limit to an overnight stay or two, driving deep across the French border towards Nice and back between the overnight stays.
  • On the way back from France, having seen the beautiful Villefranche sur Mer, Cap Ferrat and Menton, San Remo will seem pretty grey but will make for a nice pivot back into Piemontese wine country and onwards to Lake Como.
• Ventimiglia, Borgidhera, Dolceaqua, Apricale (=/+) two drive through towns b/t San Remo and the French border, better observed from up high with the Mediterranean as the backdrop.  I suspect these would be good places to grow up or spend summers as a child – otherwise the famous palm trees of Bordighera are probably the biggest local attraction.
  • Dolceaqua is worth a quick detour up from Imperia along the French border, a quintessential mountainside village: a massive medieval castle towering above, houses densely nested together on the side of the rock between the castle and the river below. Looks as if relocated from the Apennine ranges of Tuscany to the Maritime Alps.  Its historical significance stems from the fact that it was acquired by Doria in the 13^th century.