This is an easy favorite, and you can’t go wrong here – whether sightseeing or people watching. Much less controversial or undiscovered than Torino or Genoa, Milan’s sartorial distinction, architectural refinement, its overall gentility, creative energy, and theatrical vanity are well known, and since the focus here is on more overlooked destinations, not worth much discussion. But this is a busy and functioning metropolis, full of purposeful action, and exceptionally wealthy – even by Northern European standards – it is the national capital of finance and publishing, and most importantly, global capital of fashion, its vibe felt across Italy’s largest province with 10 million people.
- Centered on one of the largest and most visually compelling squares in Italy, around Duomo, Italy’s most impressive Gothic Cathedral, and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele – stunning in the sculptural qualities of its steel and glass structure – flanked by the Rinascente department store, central Milan is awe inspiring even in its most touristy version.
- Milan is a busy place – long, private streets, lots of stone, massive structures from the fascist era – but with a great deal of optimistic energy about it. A perfect city to hop on a tram (after checking its approximate route) and see what the ride brings. It is true that Milan’s Golden Rectangle is a magnet for vane, pinkies-up shoppers, but empty 18th century side streets with lesser brands like Davide Cenci and Corneliani offer equally refined sartorial experience.
- Style and culture surround you everywhere in its central part – but not of oppressive type that weighs down in the form of big, crowded museums – in fact the best thing is to stay away from organized culture and simply explore by walking, eating, stopping for shekkerato as often as possible, and above all, intently observing the locals. If you want to see how people in finance ought to dress, go to via Dante during lunch hour, and pay attention.
- Best version of nightlife – this is the only place in Italy that has it – is trendy hotel lounges in the center and, surprisingly, fashion theme places like the Cavalli Club, a nightclub in parco Sempione by the fashion designer – cheesy as it sounds, and possibly at this point far from trendy, but has a scene, beautiful people, is very Italian, and happening. Other manifestations of nightlife – like elsewhere in Italy – involve walking around outside, gelato in hand.
Good restaurants are plentiful but not easy to find. Plenty of casual trattorias and quirky over the top places throughout the city, many unremarkable, some interesting. Many high end places closed in August and reopen on a few days before end of the month, especially for dinner.
- Would definitely keep an eye out for casual places with good atmosphere like Tartufotto Milano, Pisacco or Rovello 18 right in the Brera area b/t the Golden Rectangle fashion district and Castillo Sforzesco park. In the S Babila area just East of Duomo, Salsamenteria di Parma is one of the better options but may be all about pork.
- Right on Piazza Duomo in Museo Del Novecento across the square from Galleria Vittorio Emanuel with a view of both the great arcade and the Duomo cathedral is the grand Giacomo Arengario, I would recommend it. By the sane owner but in a different style, Ristorante Da Giacomo and nearby Giacomo Bistrot just East of the center are recommended.
- I would explore those that are frequented by businesspeople next to the financial district during lunch. Gold, a restaurant by Dolce&Gabana, not far from Piazza Cordusio and via Dante, the financial area, can be interesting, and so is the beautiful garden Bar Martini by Dolce&Gabana in the designer boutique just NE of S Babila near Montenapoleone. Not far from Piazza Duomo and Piazza Cordusio is Le Banque a high end opulent restaurant with music and people watching.
- Generally, with a few exceptions, would avoid the popular Navigli area, most restaurants lining the canals mediocre and touristy, I haven’t had a good eating experience (although small bars and clubs not far were interesting).
If you are into Michelin Star scene… Milan has no three star restaurants but a few one and two star recommendations below, many outside center but easy to get to by cab or in some cases tram.
- Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia by some of the best chefs in the city and with two Michelin stars has been a top ranked restaurant for a while and has a cult like following but is outside central Milan in SW direction.
- Felix Lo Basso, this restaurant at the top floor of TownHouse Duomo right inside the opulent and recently restored Galleria Vittorio Emanuele on Piazza Duomo is one of the easiest choices. Of the quintessential commercial symbols of post-unification urban Italy and 19th century Paris – glass roofed shopping arcades – this one is the most impressive and monumental. If the arcade’s triumphal arch entrance, ideal proportions, and imposing scale are not enough, a look up at the monumental glass roof with its central octagon dome and wing vaulting, down at the polychrome floor mosaics in Venetian enamel, or out at the singular detailing of the Duomo façade will provide a real feast for the eyes. Terrace views alone are worth it, plus it has a Michelin star.
- Mandarin Oriental has the two Michelin star Seta by Antonio Guida who comes with a pedigree of multiple Michelin stars.
- SW of the center and past Porta Genova and the Navigli area I suggested you should avoid but not as far as Il Luogo above, in MUDEC, a cool new museum of cultures with informative rotating exhibits, is a new classic contemporary location by master chef Enrico Bartolini, restaurateur with several properties around Italy, it got two Michelin stars.
- Sadler, another two star restaurant South of the center, known for creative menus. You may like ultramodern Breton, one Michelin star venue, in Porta Nuova just outside city center North of Brera district and close to central station. Carlo e Camilla in Segheria just South of the center and not far from Sadler, a hip and trendy place by a Michelin star chef Carlo Cracco. Right in Porta Genova SW of the center and not far from Navigli is Osteria Delbinari, known for its many rooms and outdoor garden areas. Cracco and Al Peck are two other restaurants a block West if Piazza Duomo with celebrity chef following.
